Monday, 21 July 2025

East Sussex (7) Winnie-The-Pooh and Standen

This is a new post, though it covers the events of the 26th of February 2025
It will be moved to its appropriate chronological position soon

Ashdown Forest, Home of the Great Bear, and a 19th Century Country House

A Brief Orientation


East Sussex
After yesterday’s visit to Brighton our stay with my sister Erica and husband Peter, who live in Heathfield in East Sussex, continued with a visit to the Ashdown Forest, the home of Winnie-The-Pooh, 8km northwest Crowborough. From there we went to Standen, a National Trust Property west of Forest Row and just within the boundary of East Sussex.

The County of East Sussex
Ashdown is 5km NW of Crowborough (a third of the way to East Grinstead). Standen is west of Forest Row, just inside the county boundary

Ashdown Forest


AA Milne, Winnie-The-Pooh and Christopher Robin


AA Milne in 1922
Photo:Emil Otto Hoppé (Pub Dom)
In 1925, AA Milne was a well-established playwright and author of humorous articles when he bought Cotchford Farm in East Sussex. It was intended as a weekend and holiday cottage for Milne, his wife and their only child, five-year-old Christopher Robin. What he originally planned to write in these rural surroundings is unknown, but the birth of his son had already inspired When we were Very Young, a book of poems for children. In 1926 he published Winnie-The-Pooh, ten stories about his son, his son’s bear and their friends. The tales were set near Cotchford in the 500 Acre Wood, part of the Ashdown Forest, renamed the Hundred Aker Wood in the book. Another book of poems, Now we are Six, marked Christopher Robin reaching that landmark age and finally, in 1928, there were ten more stories collected as The House at Pooh Corner. The final story ends poignantly with Christopher Robin saying 'goodbye' before leaving the wood.

The Hundred Aker Wood

In reality he put away his soft toys and went to boarding school. Sending nine-year-old children away to school is cruel and is far less common now that it was in Milne’s day, but the Milne family, like most of their class, had been doing this for generations. His father's books were well known by his schoolmates, making Milne a target for relentless bullying. He came to resent Christopher Robin and, by extension, his father. They were later reconciled, and he found his place in life as Chris Milne, Dartmouth bookseller.

The Pooh books and the two books of poems rather swallowed AA Milne's career. They were extraordinarily successful and today are his only works still in print – which is, I suppose, four more than most writers of his generation.

I knew nothing of this darker side when the Pooh books were bought for me in 1955. They are first editions - though from the 46th and 35th reprints of the two books, so hardly valuable (at least in a monetary sense.) They are tatty, because they were much loved and they were frequently read to me and then by me and then to and by my sister. They started my relationship with The Great Bear (as I like to think of him) which has lasted 70 years.

Towards an Enchanted Place

Peter drove us to the Ashdown Forest and stopped in the Pooh Car Park. From there an unlikely looking group of volunteers for enchantment made their way down the path.

Up for enchantment? L to R Me, my sister Erica, her husband Peter

The grey February day with passing showers, was not promising but then somebody spotted Piglet’s House.

Piglet's House

We know little of the architecture; the only drawing of the real thing has little detail. There was a sign saying ‘Trespassers Will’, because Piglet’s grandfather had been called Trespassers William, but here that is above the door, Shepard shows as separate and broken. Is this, then the real Piglet’s House? The only information we have comes from the illustrations (he called them decorations) of EH Shephard, who was there at the time – unlike the outrageous fakers of the Disney Corporation.

Piglet's House

Here is another photo of Piglet’s House with my sister for scale. She makes it look ‘deceptively spacious’, to quote every estate agent who has ever lived.

Erica visits piglet

A little further on is Owl’s House…

Owl's House

… which you might like to compare with the original.

Owl's Real House - rather more accessible

I have my doubts, but when you see random pots of Hunny in the trees and know the Great Bear would never be so careless, these doubts begin to crystallise (just like Hunny).

Hunny left in trees

Then, with the rain spattering down, we reached the stream at the bottom of the hill, turned right, and there was the Pooh Sticks bridge.

Pooh Sticks Bridge

I was, of course, being disingenuous earlier, EH Shepard’s illustrations/decorations do not inform us about Piglet’s house, they define the dwellings of Piglet, Owl and the others. When the reality we see in the trees differs from the art, then it is the reality that is wrong – but they were constructed by people who cared enough to do it, and not for financial gain. They should be applauded.

But Pooh Sticks bridge introduces another form of reality. The bridge we see today is the same bridge that stood here 100 years ago – give or take the repairs and renovations required to keep a wooden bridge over a muddy stream in good condition for a century. Shepard did not need to imagine the bridge but did have to imagine a bear and a rabbit each about to drop a stick into the stream.

Pooh and Rabbit play Pooh Sticks

Getting a couple of pensioners to imitate them is easy. Shepard, I notice, gave more interesting expressions to Pooh and Rabbit with a few strokes of a pen, than we managed with our actual faces.

Less adept players of the game

During Pooh and Rabbit’s game, Looking very calm very dignified, with his legs in the air, came Eeyore from beneath the bridge.

Eeyore emerges from under the Pooh Sticks bridge

“It's Eeyore!” cried Roo, terribly excited.

“Is that so?” said Eeyore, getting caught up by a little eddy and turning slowly round three times. “I wondered.”

I include that snippet of Eeyore being delightfully Eeyore-ish, because when it was read to me in nineteen fiftysomething I learned a new word. Eddy was, I thought, a grand and exciting word and I treasured it. It also allowed me to show my favourite illustration of Eeyore.

While we were at the bridge two young people, a man and a woman in their early 20s, came down the path towards us and politely inquired the way to Pooh’s house. We pointed them in the right direction. It is ridiculous to imagine you know anything about people you have met for no more than a minute, but… they gave the impression of being foreign students cast up on this dank and misty island (not everyday, but certainly this day) in a quest for knowledge. They spoke good English, but it was not their first language. Indeed, they probably did not share a first language, but they had come together to this place to search out the origins of Winnie-The-Pooh. The Great Bear embraces the world.

Pooh’s house is over the bridge and further down the path. We passed the students (or not-students) making the return journey.

Pooh's House

I will forgive the muddiness of the scene; this is February while the Hundred Aker wood enjoyed the sunshine of perpetual summer. I could be picky about some positionings and spellings, but EH Shepard has drawn Pooh sitting outside on a comfy log, implying the door opens inwards, which is somewhat impractical if you live in a tree trunk.

Pooh's House

The Wonder that is Pooh

As the final story in Winnie-The-Pooh (the first of the two books) comes to its end

Pooh and Piglet walked home thoughtfully together in the golden evening, and for a long time they were silent.

“When you wake up in the morning, Pooh,” said Piglet at last, “What's the first thing you say to yourself?”

“What's for breakfast?” said Pooh. “What do you say, Piglet?”

“I say, I wonder what's going to happen exciting today?” said Piglet.

Pooh is my sort of bear. Excitement and adventures are all well and good, but first things first.

Milne’s writing is crisp and simple, the words jogging along, one after another. There is plenty humour directed at children, Pooh attacked by bees while dangling from a balloon, or trapped in rabbits burrow by his ever-increasing girth, but even the slapstick is elegantly understated. The characters are fully formed and three-dimensional. When Pooh and Piglet plan their heffalump trap they argue about the best bait for catching heffalumps. Pooh, naturally, says honey, Piglet acorns. As they argue Piglet realises that if he wins, he will have to provide the acorns, and if Pooh wins, he must provide the honey. Piglet quickly switches sides. As he does so Pooh realises the same thing, but too late, he has been caught out. He takes it on the chin, as a gentleman should. The characters have frailties, Piglet’s occasional selfishness, Owl’s permanent self-importance, Eeyore’s moroseness, but malice is unknown in the Hundred Aker Wood.

EH Shepard in 1932
Howard Coster (Fair Use)

Milne’s voice contains a smile that is sardonic, yet very gentle; a knowing nod to the adults over the heads of the children. The writing is very British, understated and still feels surprisingly modern, Nothing in the two books seems dated – except the way Christopher Robin dresses, and that looked odd in 1956. In the final story, when Christopher Robin leaves the wood, the animals gather to say goodbye and send him off with ‘a rissolution.’ They all want to express their feelings, as does Christopher Robin but they cannot trust their emotions. One after another, they clear their throats to speak but say nothing, and one by one all, except Pooh, drift away. And I shall drift away there (without deigning to deal with the blasphemies of the Disney Corporation) but I must make a final mention of illustrator Ernest Howard Shepard who unfailingly places the cherry in just the right spot on Milnes artfully baked cake.

Standen House

Leaving Ashdown Forest we headed for Standen House, a National Trust Property some 20 minutes to the west, and like the Forest, situated in the High Weald Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Lunchtime had arrived so we visited the café in search of a little smackerel, as Pooh would have said.

Philip Webb 1873
Charles Fairfax Murray (Pub Dom)
In 1890, wealthy solicitor James Beale and vis wife Margaret bought a 12-acre estate, consisting of three farms. One of them, Standen farm, gave its name to their new country house. Standen was a weekend retreat for themselves and for (or from?) their seven children. Later it became their retirement home.

The house was designed by Philip Webb, a founder of the Arts and Crafts movement, and built between 1891 and 1893. He integrated the medieval farm building into the vernacular design using local sandstone, local bricks, tile-hanging, pebble-dash and timber all chosen to harmonize with the landscape. My photo shows only one wing - there is more piled on top to the left. Perhaps it is just me, but I am unconvinced the building harmonises with itself, never mind the landscape.


Standen

Margaret Beale took charge of the interior. She commissioned wallpapers, carpets, textiles and furniture mostly from William Morris & Co, all reflecting the ideals of the Arts and Crafts movement.

Original William Morris wallpaper, Standen

Philip Webb built in modern comforts, like central heating and off-grid electricity provided by a Donkey Engine. The house certainly looks more comfortable than most older National Trust properties. Visitors see the house dressed for a weekend stay in 1925 and the parlour looks comfortable enough, in an early 20th century way,

The parlour, Standen

The conservatory looks a little cluttered…

The conservatory, Standen

…but I would like a billiards room like this.

Billiards Room, Standen

The Larkspur bedroom was re-papered in 1937 with William Morris Larkspur wallpaper. It also featured a built-in wardrobe, uncommon for the time, with an external mirror, designed for the Beales’ eldest daughter Amy.

The Larkspur Room

James Beale used to sometimes see clients at Standen. He had an office with a door into the house for himself and another for clients with access only to the outside. He is still there, but only as a sketch by one of his daughters.

James Beale's Office, Standen (and a National Trust Volunteer)

The hillside garden behind the house is, I read, spectacular. William Morris said a ‘house should be clothed by its garden,’ but gardens are not at their best in February, and certainly not on a miserable day like today. We chose not to wander round it in the rain.

Are we having fun yet?

James Beale died in 1912. Margaret remained here until 1936, followed by daughter Margaret (“Maggie”) and youngest daughter Helen. The house remained largely unaltered over decades and Helen Beale, who had been involved in nursing during WWI and later the WRNS, bequeathed Standen to the National Trust in 1972

East Sussex

Part 1:Bodiam and Rye (2020)
Part 2:Bateman's, Firle Beacon and the Long Man of Wilmington (2021)
Part 3: Battle and Hastings (2021)
Part 4: Rottingdean and The Devil's Dyke (2024)
Part 5: Lewes and Charleston (2024) (coming soon)
Part 6: Brighton Pavilion (2025) (coming soon)
Part 7: Winnie-The-Pooh and Standen (2025)

Monday, 23 June 2025

Slovenia (1): On and Around Lake Bled

A Lake, an Island and a Cream Cake

Slovenia?

Not Slovakia!


Slovenia
This post is the first of several about our visit to Slovenia. Some people - I'm sure you're not one of them – confuse Slovenia and Slovakia, so for their benefit: Slovakia was the eastern end of Czechoslovakia (there's a clue in the name) until Czechia and Slovakia decided on an amicable divorce, the decree becoming absolute on the 1st of January 1993…

…while Slovenia was the northernmost, wealthiest and second smallest of the constituent republics of Yugoslavia. In July 1991 Slovenia became the first Yugoslav republic to declare independence.

The Army was dispatched to deal with the breakaway but withdrew after 9 days, what the Slovenes did was less important to them than the imminent fighting between Serbs and Croats and the horror that Bosnia would become (see Sarajevo: The Siege, posted 2012). As most of the disintegrating Yugoslavia became locked in internecine warfare, Slovenia quietly got on with being a new, small independent Republic, joining the UN in 1992, the EU in 2004 and adopting the euro in 2007.

Slovenia (Bled and Ljubljana underlined) with position in Europe in inset

Slovenia is prosperous, but small, a tad (4%) smaller than Wales, the epitome of a small country, with only 68% as many people – and their sheep population is not worth comparing.

22-June-2025

Getting There

Flights from Gatwick to Ljubljana, the Slovenian capital, are scheduled for just over two hours. That is an hour less than going to Portugal which I had always thought of as a near neighbour, while Slovenia is far away in eastern Europe.

Our late afternoon departure was delayed, and waiting for an air traffic control slot wasted more time. A change of time zone and the inevitable formalities at Ljubljana meant darkness was falling when we met with Boris who would drive us north to Bled. We arrived in time to check in and go to bed.

23-June-2025

Bled Lake


Bled
After an excellent breakfast we ventured out for our first look at Slovenia.

Bled is a small town (pop: 5,000) nestling in the foothills of the Alps, 50km north of Ljubljana and 10km south of the Austrian border. It has two hotel rooms for every citizen, suggesting it has become a tourist hot spot.

Bled, its lake and out hotel

The reason for that is Lake Bled, but where was it? Our hotel boasted it was ‘a few steps from the lake’ so we walked down hill, rounded a curve and proved them right.

Lake Bled and Bled Island

In 18th century England, as the need for castles and strongholds diminished, aristocrats and those with sufficient funds built themselves opulent country houses. The Renaissance had introduced an appreciation of beauty in nature and wealthy house-owners wanted perfect views from their windows and terraces. Nature was not always up to the job, providing an opportunity for professional landscapers, foremost among them Lancelot “Capability” Brown, who would move a woodland here, insert a lake there and create (at great expense) landscapes more perfectly natural than the one nature provided. Lake Bled would be Capability Brown's despair, there is nothing he could do to improve this view.

Bled's shield (above) shows blue water, an island and a castle on a rocky bluff. The first photo showed blue water and the island; a slight change of direction brings the castle into view.

Lake Bled and Bled Castle

You may view Lake Bled as a tear dropped from God’s eye, but at a more prosaic level it is 2.1Km long, up to 1.4km wide, has a surface area of 1.45km² and a maximum depth of 30m.

Round the Lake

There is a clause in the Slovenian constitution which states that all able-bodied visitors to Bled must, at the first available opportunity, walk around the lake. There is not actually true but most visitors behave as though it is, and we were no different. We set off in a clockwise direction on a warm morning that could only get hotter.

The footpath is 6km of largely level pavement, woodland track, gravel path and boardwalk. We tried, not entirely successfully, to avoid the temptation to repeatedly photograph ourselves in front of the castle…

Me spoiling the view of the castle

… or the island just because it was a different angle.

Lynne and the island, Lake Bled

Shaded, woody sections of the path attracted anglers who set up their rods, reclined comfortably in their chairs, and dozed as they waited for the rods to catch them a fish.

There was birdsong, so I asked Merlin what it was. It quickly spotted blackbird, robin, jackdaw, chiffchaff and great tit - some of the commonest birds from our garden at home - plus the slightly less common but still not rare blackcap, song thrush and nuthatch. Amidst this was a marsh tit, a 'lifer' for me. Globally its population is healthy, but in the UK it has dropped 50% since 1970.

A couple of hundred metres of boardwalk at the lake’s western extremity...

Lynne on the boardwalk

...allowed us to peer into the limpid waters (well, they're as limpid as lakes get) and spot the angler’s quarry. The lake contains giant catfish, pike, carp, three species of trout (though we saw none on local menus) perch and more.

Is that a trout in there?

The boardwalk has an angle allowing both the island and castle to be in one photograph…

The island and the castle in a single photo!

… and while we were there the clocktower chimed 10.25, which seemed eccentric.

Bled Cream Cake

Around 10.45 it was getting hotter and we started looking for a coffee stop. We found one at Velika Zaka, roughly the halfway spot. To accompany our coffee, we ordered a blejska kremna rezina (Bled Cream Cake) because cream cake is an integral part of visiting Bled, like walking round the lake.

Bled Cream Cake

A huge traditional pastry (I am glad we ordered one between two) it was ‘perfected’ in 1953 by Ištvan LukaÄŤević, pastry chef at Hotel Park. They are now all made to his recipe. Apart from being difficult to eat with two soft layers between two crisp layers, and supplying a complete week’s sugar requirement in one go, it is not very interesting – there is more to a perfect pastry than buxom good looks (see the Portuguese Pastel de Nata in Eating the Algarve). Oh dear, now I can never go back!

Completing the Walk

A couple of hundred metres beyond our coffee stop, as the clock chimed 11.07, we detoured from the lakeshore around Bled Rowing Club, Olympic Centre and marina. The rowing club has a 6-lane lane 2000 metre course marked out diagonally across the lake. The World Championships have been held here four times, most recently in 2011.

We never quite returned to the lake shore, but as the day grew hotter and the chiming of the clock more erratic, the number of walkers grew steadily. We plodded on and were surprised to look back and discover the island was now well behind us and the castle looming above.

Still plodding on

Re-entering the built-up area at the head of the lake, our walk passed parkland, playgrounds and swimming areas. I had considered swimming but decided the lake would be too cold. I have seen a photo of a former student of mine (now grown up, so she should know better) swimming in Lake Bled in winter when the water temperature was 4°. That put me off, though I have read that by the end of summer it reaches an acceptable 25. But June, I thought, might be a little bit cool for a dedicated wuss and heated indoor pool swimmer like me, and I was less than entirely comfortable with the thought of 2m long catfish – you don’t see those in Stone Leisure Centre.

Lunch (With a Side Order of Rant)

The circumambulation completed, we checked out the boats for an afternoon ride to the island and then found the nearest bar to have a bite, rest our feet and administer a very necessary cold beer.

A life saving cold beer, Bled

It was the nearest bar because we were tired, we did not reject the next one up the road for any reason other than proximity, and certainly not because of this review which you can find on Google.

Location is bad, along a busy road (it is the road we are sitting beside in the photo) and the drink menu is very simple. Only 4 beers on the menu... (the owner claims, 8 and the drinks menu might look less simple if you include the many drinks the writer has never heard of and probably wont try) … [the] lady at the bar speaks only her own language… I stopped reading there, ‘her own language?’ as though she was making it up as she went along. She was, I presume, a Slovenian, speaking Slovenian in Slovenia, that is less ‘her own language,’ and more the language of this town and this country. You, Mr Reviewer, were the one speaking ‘his own language’ rather than the majority tongue. Many (most) of those working in tourist facing positions do learn/pick up some English, it has become the lingua franca of the tourist trade; it makes us anglophones (me included) lazy, but it should not make us feel entitled. We, the army of travellers/tourists/holidaymakers, may be legion, but we are guests not occupiers and should behave that way.

With that in mind, we thanked the young lady who had brought us our beer and paninis, left a modest tip, as is the local custom and returned to the lakeside.

Bled Island

Getting There

A landing stage for Lake Bled’s traditional flat-bottomed boats was near the start/finish of our walk. The pletna (from High German Plätten 'flat-bottomed boat') has been used in Lake Bled since at least 1590 (some claim 1150). In 1740 Marie Theresa, Empress of Austria granted 22 families exclusive rights to ferry pilgrims across to worship on Bled Island. No motorboats of any type are permitted on Lake Bled, and even today only Pletnas may carry paying passengers to and from the island. Many modern rowers are still members of the original 22 families.

The Pletna sets off

They row standing on the stern using two oars. The boats’ construction owes something to Venetian gondolas (Venice is only 170km away) but the propulsion is different, and passengers sit beneath brightly coloured awnings.

Heading out across the lake

The heavy boat moved at speed, demonstrating expertly applied brute force. As we approached the landing stage, apparently far too fast, the rower stood up straight, gave a deft flick with one oar, the boat turned 180° and glided gently up to its mooring.

Pletnas on Blead Island

The Island and the Church of the Assumption

There is no obvious reason for Bled Island being a place of pilgrimage but it has been a sacred site since before Christianity arrived. The Church of the Assumption of Mary was built here in the 15th century, and even today on the appropriate feast day (July the 15th) crowds come here to worship.

We were not pilgrims, and as we left the boat the oarsman said ‘return in 40 minutes.’ We struggled up the stone steps to the front of the old church with its prominent ‘no entry sign.’ ...

Stone steps, Bled Island

... and round the back where there is the clocktower, a café and the inevitable gift shop. After a good look at that we still had 30 minutes to fill.

Bell tower, Bled Island

The church was open on this side, but we needed a ticket. On approaching the adjacent kiosk, we learned that entry was €12.50 each. That is €25 (£22, US$30) for two which is a lot of money for a short visit to a small, largely disused church. ‘Is there a special price for seniors,’ I asked, playing the old git card. ‘I can give you a child’s ticket’ he said ‘€5.’ And so he did, though I still thought it was on the high side - though Lynne disagrees.

Inside is a baroque altarpiece with almost enough gold to satisfy an American president….

Gold altarpiece, Church of the Assumption, Bled Island

…and a baroque pulpit, …

Baroque pulpit, Church of the Assumption, Bled Island

…but the church is older than that as the remains of a Gothic fresco demonstrate.

Gothic fresco, Church of the Assumption, Bled Island

A bell rope hangs in front of the altar rail and punters are invited to give it a tug. There is a technique to it, but if you follow the instructions no great strength is required to get the bell ringing at the third pull. After that you can go on indefinitely, but good manners demand otherwise.

Ringing the bell, Church of the Assumption, Bled Island

Only when I heard the bell did I realise why the bell we had heard this morning (and wrongly assumed to be in the clock tower) had been chiming at such eccentric intervals.

A Tall Tale

Long ago, in Bled Castle a nobleman was killed by robbers. His grieving widow, Poliksena had a beautiful bell cast in his memory for the church on Bled Island. Sadly, a terrible storm blew up while the bell was being transported to the island. The boat capsized, and the bell sank into the depths never to be seen again.

Distraught, Poliksena went to Rome, entered a convent and lived out a life of quiet devotion. When the Pope heard her story, he commissioned a new bell and sent it to the island church.

That was the bell we rang, if you make a wish with a pure heart, the Virgin Mary will hear it and grant it. Whether that is true or not, we do not know as neither of us made a wish.

Of course, like all sunken bells wherever they may be, when the mist is on the lake, the sound of a bell etc, etc, etc.

Back to Bled

Like most of the others, we arrived a little early for the return journey. The round trip, which commits the oarsman to 10-15 minutes rowing each way and a wait of 30 minutes, costs €20 a head. A pletna has 20 seats giving a total of €400 for the trip, do that five times a day, six days a week produces around €50,000 a month. Doubtless there are overheads, maintaining the boat, membership of the organisation which keeps the rowing fraternity a small elite group, and maybe landing fees and mooring costs, but it is, on the face of it, a nice little earner. But not every boat is full, and it is a seasonal occupation. Opening up the market might reduce prices, but tradition would be lost, the atmosphere would change, people might even notice there is nothing to do on Bled Island and that would have to be remedied. I think I prefer it as it is, low key, peaceful but maybe a little more expensive than it should be.

So, the story of our first day in Slovenia comes to an end. We went out for dinner later, and that will, one day, be part of another post called Slovenia: Eating and Drinking.